There are many different parts of a house which need painting. For the best protective and decorative value, each must be considered separately. We have developed specialized paint systems to help you achieve professional, long-lasting results for a fraction of the cost. For:
Living Room. Here you can just about use any paint system. If the living rom is open-plan, smoke from cooking vapors will migrate to the area. Also, smoke from fireplaces will stain walls. A system with good washdown properties is best. Use Semi Gloss or Low Sheen Acrylic.
Masonry. This includes bricks, bagged brickwork, concrete blocks and cement render of all types. These surfaces are usually dusty and grimy. They are porous and often the mortar joints break up. Previously painted surfaces might show signs of chalking, where paint powder comes off when you rub it. Mould and algae grow on masonry which is shaded from sun and kept damp and cold. This problem should be remedied before painting. Use a Low Sheen or Gloss, weather-resistant, acrylic paint.
Metal Roof. There is often no need to pay for an expensive new roof just because the old one is showing its age. With the right paint, you can make it look new. After treating for rust, choose the finish most suitable to your situation. Use a water-based, roof and structure, acrylic paint.
Pergolas. Where softwoods such as Oregon are used, pergolas must be painted for protection. But even if the timver is hardwood or treated pine, a paint finish enhances its looks. A Low Sheen or Gloss, weather-resistant, acrylic paint that is specially formulated for timber is recommended.
Plasterboard. Ready-to-paint plasterboard has two surfaces, lining paper and jointing compound. Both must be sealed so that your finish paper won’t be absorbed into the surface and come out blotchy. Use an acrylic sealer for undercoat and a Low Sheen or Flat, acrylic paint. There are no unusual problems with repainting plasterboard. However, holes and other surface damage must be repaired and the filler sealed as for new plasterboard.
Timber (Rough-sawn). You can paint rough-sawn timber and still keep the rugged effect, but you’ll need to do a little extra effort. On my house, I used a 50 – 50 wash of an exterior acrylic primer and water. When dry, the raised fibres were lightly sanded of. Then I used a primer at full strength before the finish coats of a weather-resistant, acrylic paint.
Weatherboards. While timbers like treated pine, western red cedar and durable hardwoods don’t need the protection of paint, the wood turns a drab grey if left to weather. Use a Low Sheen or Gloss, weather-resistant paint. All non-durable weatherboards must be painted for protection against the elements. Outside walls represent about one-third of the exposed surfaces of your home, so give their protection due consideration.
Windows (Timber). For exterior treatment, see Weatherboards. For old sash windows, we recommend instead a High Gloss Enamel. For interior treatment, you have the choice of water-based and oil-based paint systems. Here is a hint: acrylic paints are easier to use than oil-based, but on the exterior, they tend to make double-hung windows stick. I get over this by dusting talcum powder onto the sliding surfaces.
Decks. Unless decking boards are painted as soon as they are fixed in place, the surface will age and turn grey. The greyness represents ageing, which won’t hold paint for very long. If the boards are already grey, sand-off the surface before painting. Priming will improve durability. Use a paint that is specially formulated for decking.